{"id":33212,"date":"2023-08-02T11:42:45","date_gmt":"2023-08-02T11:42:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.planinskimuzej.si\/?p=33212"},"modified":"2024-10-08T11:48:27","modified_gmt":"2024-10-08T11:48:27","slug":"first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/","title":{"rendered":"First Slovenes in El Capitan 1973"},"content":{"rendered":"<p id=\"tw-target-text\" class=\"tw-data-text tw-text-large tw-ta\" dir=\"ltr\" data-placeholder=\"Prevod\"><span class=\"Y2IQFc\" lang=\"en\">Old Indian legends tell of the first climbers in Yosemite Valley, and the first white man is said to have set foot there in 1833. In November 1958, the famous Nose route in El Capitan was climbed for the first time, equipped with ropes, in 47 days. Over time, local climbers have developed their own climbing technique with special equipment and a different philosophy. The basic rule was to leave the wall clean and untainted by technique after climbing; these were the pioneers of today&#8217;s free climbing. In Europe at that time, the mountains in the Himalayas were the dream and the biggest challenge of every mountaineer, but it was difficult to make it to the shortlist with the multitude of excellent climbers. That&#8217;s why mountaineers were always looking for new confirmations and new interesting goals. The unknown mighty ostrich in California was just the right amount of mysterious and exciting. But until 1973, only a few Europeans tried it. &#8220;If you want to catch the train, you have to run faster than the train,&#8221; said Ale\u0161 Kunaver more than 50 years ago, when we Slovenians began to catch up with the great mountaineering nations in mountaineering. In 1973, with the ascents of El Capitan, we stepped into the very top of world alpinism. The idea for the expedition came to Janez Gradi\u0161ar. He managed to inspire already tested climbers for the project: Janez Dov\u017ean and Miha Smole from Dovje, Janez Lon\u010dar and Du\u0161an Sre\u010dnik from Tr\u017ei\u010d and Nejc Zaplotnik from Kranj. They managed to justify before the commission that it was a Slovenian and not a Yugoslav expedition by the fact that it consisted only of Slovenes. During the preparations, they studied the descriptions of the wall and the course, unfamiliar equipment and its correct use, and looked for sponsors. When they arrived in the USA, the Slovenians in San Francisco, especially Dr. Dekleva and dr. Storks. At that time, they climbed the famous routes of Salathe Wall over the wall of El Capitan, Triple Direct, East Buttress. The story of the mountaineers, who in 1973 plowed the fallow land in the glistening stone mass of El Capitan, continues with increasingly difficult ascents daring climbers. &#8220;In our time, climbing was more of an adventure than a sport. Today it evolved into high-altitude gymnastics. Elite climbers are disciplined athletes who constantly train and repeat movements to perfection. &#8221; Source: Jenkins, Mark: Bold. Challenging. Free from all bonds, National Geographic Slovenia, 5, 2011, p. 71.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"tw-data-text tw-text-large tw-ta\" dir=\"ltr\" data-placeholder=\"Prevod\"><span class=\"Y2IQFc\" lang=\"en\">You can read the pamphlet accompanying the exhibition at the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.planinskimuzej.si\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/Yosemite-W-7k23.pdf\">link<\/a>. The exhibition will be available for viewing until September 10, 2023.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/El-Cap-scaled-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-33203\" src=\"https:\/\/www.planinskimuzej.si\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/El-Cap-1024x663.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"663\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a>Photo: Janez Dov\u017ean<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Old Indian legends tell of the first climbers in Yosemite Valley, and the first white man is said to have set foot there in 1833. In November 1958, the famous Nose route in El Capitan was climbed for the first time, equipped with ropes, in 47 days. Over time, local climbers have developed their own  [&#8230;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":37054,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,30,29],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-33212","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arhiv-razstav-en","category-news","category-urgent-news"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.1.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>First Slovenes in El Capitan 1973 - Planinski Muzej<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"First Slovenes in El Capitan 1973 - Planinski Muzej\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Old Indian legends tell of the first climbers in Yosemite Valley, and the first white man is said to have set foot there in 1833. In November 1958, the famous Nose route in El Capitan was climbed for the first time, equipped with ropes, in 47 days. Over time, local climbers have developed their own [...]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Planinski Muzej\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-08-02T11:42:45+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-10-08T11:48:27+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/358059420_762902605836548_3458981742728688764_n-2.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1840\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1232\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Planinski Muzej\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Planinski Muzej\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"2 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Planinski Muzej\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/#\/schema\/person\/1071165fcba3d31b6da6458ebbf353b5\"},\"headline\":\"First Slovenes in El Capitan 1973\",\"datePublished\":\"2023-08-02T11:42:45+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-10-08T11:48:27+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/\"},\"wordCount\":440,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/358059420_762902605836548_3458981742728688764_n-2.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Arhiv razstav EN\",\"News\",\"Urgent news\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/planinskimuzej.si\/en\/first-slovenes-in-el-capitan-1973\/\",\"name\":\"First Slovenes in El Capitan 1973 - 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